One of the most powerful ways to improve tank performance is also the simplest: Regular water change in a mindful way.
It is practised in the largest world-class aquariums, and should be done even in a the smallest desktop tank. While a tank looks naturalistic, it is not naturally self-sustaining. Organic waste (much of which cannot be measured by hobbyist test kits) accumulates and not everything can be digested by the tank's bio-filter.
Embrace the power: Change Water the 2Hr Way today.
The #1 algae trigger is decomposing organic matter. Remove all decaying leaves. Stem plants require replanting after pruning a few times. Unlike terrestrial hardwoods, older aquatic stems generally deteriorate over time. Remove and discard old stems and roots.
Instead of simply draining water, use a pipette or turkey baster to gently stir up detritus on the surface of plants and substrate. Take care not to stir up deeper levels of the substrate. Vacuum the detritus away while draining away around 40% of the tank's water.
Add a comprehensive 360 water conditioner directly into the tank and refill, taking care not to stir up the deeper levels of substrate. If you are keeping sensitive livestock, pre-mix the water conditioner in a separate container before adding the conditioned water into the aquarium.
Apart from Chlorine and Chloramine, tap water can have unexpected occurrences of Heavy Metals (e.g. copper from old piping) which is lethal to livestock.
Tap water can also contain Ammonia. More often though, it is released within the tank: when we stir up decaying matter buried in the substrate, when there is livestock death or when the tank’s biological filtration system fails and there is a surge in waste matter.
Sudden spikes in Ammonia and Nitrite (an oxidised form of Ammonia) can melt plants and kill livestock.
360 protection from Chlorine, Chloramines, Ammonia, Heavy Metals, Nitrites and Nitrates.
5X more concentrated than competing products. This translates to greater savings.
Try it for 100 days. If it doesn’t work, get a full refund. We are aquarists too and want the best for you.
Above: a 2Hr Tank with a lively population of Gold Tetras using APT Pure water conditioner.
Of course, if you mean just draining the tank and refilling. It does not change the way APT Pure works. We recommend changing water The 2Hr Way because if you are making the effort to change water, we find that going the extra mile to siphon the surface detritus makes a real difference in keeping algae under control. You can certainly choose whichever method you prefer.
For most tanks, simply add it into the tank, before adding tap water.
If you are keeping more sensitive fish or livestock, it is best to pre-mix it with tap water, before adding the water into the tank.
During water change, add 1ml for every 60L of tap water.
To detoxify ammonia in a tank, add up to 5ml for every 60L of tank water.
The smell of garlic or sulphur is perfectly normal. It comes from the combination of compounds that make up APT Pure.
The compounds in APT Pure are extremely stable. As a guide, we recommend finishing the product within 3 years of opening.
Due to way APT Pure binds Ammonia, most test kits (both Nessler and salicylate based kits) will not work properly. You will most likely see a cloudy brown result that does not match against the color charts provided.
APT Pure does not make nitrates (or nitrites) disappear from the tank. It binds them into a form that is harmless to livestock, but digestible by plants and bacteria. So within normal use, it does not affect fertilizers or more specifically the availability of nutrients for plant uptake.
Chlorine (Cl2) is present in tap water in most countries. It is used to kill bacteria, viruses and other microbes in public water systems. However, this chemical also damages the gills of fish and other aquatic animals if present. Most public tap water contain between 0.2 to 2ppm (parts per million) of Chlorine. Importantly, the level of Chlorine and Chloramine can vary by location and time of day. So even if your tap water measures zero Chlorine today does not mean it is always zero.
Chloramine performs the same disinfection functions as Chlorine in public water systems. Chloramine is a more stable form of Chlorine - formed by bonding Chlorine with ammonia or other amines. Most anti-chlorine products do break down Chloramine. However, breaking down Chloramine releases it from its ammonia-bond, resulting in the release of ammonia into the water column. Thus, it is necessary to have an ammonia binder present to prevent the ammonia spike from harming livestock. Ammonia binders typically reduce the toxicity of ammonia by binding it to larger compounds - which are then digested by the biological filtration system of the tank. Not all anti-chlorine products contain ammonia binders - if your tap water contains chloramine, it is highly recommended to use an anti-chlorine product that also binds ammonia.
Chlorine does dissipate by itself over 24 to 48 hours. The time taken depends on surface area of the water body in question, whether there is turnover etc. Boiling the water for an hour or so can speed up the process, but may not be a practical approach. Chloramine is much more stable and not does dissipate naturally. Activated carbon removes both Chlorine and Choramine, but require good contact time for complete removal.