Tackle the most demanding plants, or just enjoy everyday magic in the simplest tank. The easiest way to unlock the true potential of your planted tank today.
The 2Hr Aquarist All-In-One Fertiliser.
Richer Colors, Less Algae. Faster Results.
Dose 5ml per 100L four times a week or 3ml per 100L daily.
200ml lasts ~3mths for an 18 Gal / 70L tank. Pump not included.
500ml lasts ~3mths for a 50 Gal / 190L tank. Pump not included.
1000ml lasts ~3mths for a 100 Gal / 380L tank. Pump not included.
Our signature Standard Pack comes with a calibrated pump.
300ml. Lasts ~3mths for a 30 Gal / 115L tank.
Quiet simplicity. Uncommon results.
Which product is right for me?
APT 1 is perfect for tanks with more fish, fewer plants. Also for new tanks (<3 months) with aquasoil. Enjoy comprehensive nutrition without nitrates and phosphates for maximum algae control.
APT 3 is perfect for tanks with more plants, fewer fish. Enjoy 100% comprehensive macro, micro and trace minerals. Unlocks the full potential of the hobby's most demanding plants.
APT e is perfect for heavily planted Dutch Style tanks and users who understand EI methodology. Supremely concentrated and expertly balanced.
It is normal for tanks less than 6 months old to have various bouts of algae issues, most of which can be avoided with proper cycling prior to planting. APT cannot compensate for inadequate cycling.
It is also normal for plants to take several weeks to adapt. APT helps to speed up the process, but you still need patience. In tanks without CO2, this takes 2-3 months. Adaptation may involve shedding leaves (yes!) and / or having leaves that appear deformed. The hardest, yet most effective response is to tinker less and provide a stable tank environment for the plants to adapt. Look for improvement in NEW LEAVES, not old ones.
A mature tank can respond to better nutrition in several ways. The best (and most common) outcome is healthier NEW GROWTH. Old leaves do not rejuvenate even when conditions improve, and may even deteriorate faster, as we explain here.
In rare cases, better nutrition can seemingly trigger algae. This can happen:
(a) if there is prior accumulation of organic waste, especially on mosses and slow growers. When plants adjust to a new nutritional environment, they release proteins that serve as food for algae. The combination of accumulated organic waste + excreted proteins can be a trigger for algae.
(b) if volatile organic matter is released due to replanting or cleaning. In mature tanks, volatile organic matter builds up naturally in the substrate and hard-to-reach corners. When inadvertently released, often coincidentally with improved nutrition, algae can bloom. This can be avoided by performing thorough water change the 2Hr way after replanting / revamping the tank.
(c) if seemingly ‘OK’ plants (especially slow growers like Mosses, Bucephalandra, Crypts, Java Fern, Anubias, Alternanthera species etc.) are actually not as healthy as they appear. Plants often respond to improved tank conditions (better nutrition, or lighting, or CO2…) by accelerating the shedding of older, less healthy leaves. This attracts algae, which help in the decomposition process. Slow growers that are not healthy are especially hard to spot, as they can be in 'Zombie’ states for a long time, as we describe here.
(d) finally, if you are making a drastic change in dosing regime (e.g. very lean to something alot richer, or vice versa), this forces plants to reprogram their cells to adapt and this process almost certainly triggers algae. A gradual transition over 2-3 weeks often helps. But the longer slow-growers have adapted to a particular environment, the harder it is for them to 'switch'.
If you have a mature tank (> 1 year old) and are looking to improve plant health / growth, please check out this article.
Questions on usage, dosage or your tank? Let us know.
We also have a detailed FAQ here that may help.