2Hr Aquarist APT e

The simplest way to decide is by your substrate and how hands-on you want to be. APT 3 is nitrate-limiting: growth is a little slower, algae risk is lower, and maintenance is more forgiving, which makes it the better match for nutrient-rich soil or anyone wanting a steadier tank. APT e supplies nitrate and phosphate in full, so plants grow faster - but that pace assumes strong CO2, good flow, and consistent dosing, and it leaves less margin for error. Choose APT e if you run an inert substrate or a high-energy tank and you're comfortable staying on top of maintenance; choose APT 3 if you have nutrient-rich soil or prefer an easier routine. (APT 1 is the starter step for the first one to three months on fresh soil.)

APT e isn't "too strong" on its own, but it does assume the rest of your tank is keeping pace. Because it doses nitrate and phosphate in full, it's built for tanks with strong, stable CO2, good circulation, and enough plant mass to use those nutrients. Early-stage algae usually points to the tank not yet being balanced -CO2 fluctuating, flow reaching only part of the tank, or a young tank still maturing - rather than to the fertiliser itself. If you're in the first few weeks, or your setup is more moderate, APT 3 or APT 1 is often the steadier choice while things settle.

Yes. Because APT 1 carries no nitrate or phosphate while APT 3 and APT e do, blending APT 1 with either gives you a middle ground - more nitrogen and phosphate than APT 1 on its own, but less than a full dose of APT 3 or APT e. It's a useful way to fine-tune how lean or rich your dosing is: lean toward APT 1 in the mix for tighter algae control and nitrate limitation, or toward APT e for faster growth. You can adjust the ratio to suit your tank rather than treating the three as mutually exclusive.